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Sonntag, 24. Mai 2015

Social compliance becomes a household word


In 2006, a group of Bangladeshis who had all been involved with the readymade garment sector in one way or another for years were recruited by a Bangladeshi-German project to design and implement a social compliance training course and manual reflecting the reality of the Bangladeshi garment industry and in line with the Bangladesh Labour Law 2006. The result was a path-breaking action-learning programme that has transformed “social compliance” from an esoteric foreign concept into a household word.  by Marianne Scholte

Women playing Ludo at Awaj Foundation Women's Café
Saifullah Khawaja, former Director of the Liaison Office for Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) in Dhaka, Bangladesh, explains how he got involved in social compliance: “In 1992, the Bangladeshi garment factory I was working for made me responsible for compliance. The first thing that happened was we failed an audit conducted by a brand called Tommy Hilfiger. We didn’t know anything about compliance; no one did. When I got the report I started studying things and tried to work it out. Then GAP came and my factory passed. That is how it started.”

Md. Manjur Morshed was one of the people carrying out social compliance audits for major European and US apparel brands. He inspected hundreds of garment factories in Bangladesh, but grew increasingly frustrated with the limitations placed on him as an auditor. As he explains, “Even by the mid-2000s, no one knew what social compliance was. But it was a conflict of interest for me as an auditor to advise the factories. I could not tell them how to improve their violations, never suggest anything, not even training. And in any case, the only social compliance training available was outside the country and it was costly. I wanted to contribute more.”

Shatil Ara worked part-time as a third-party auditor in order to finance her university studies. Like Morshed, she found that most companies had no idea what social compliance was. Two Korean companies for whom she carried out audits asked her to translate their code of conduct and Bangladesh’s labour laws into Bangla and to design a training programme to help companies comply with these. “My training programme was totally bookish,” she admits.

In 2007, Saifullah, Morshed, and Ara were among the people recruited to develop a comprehensive social compliance training programme for the Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) sector – a programme that is today used throughout the sector by RMG factories, trade associations, NGOs, training institutes, and universities and has played a key role in raising awareness and improving working conditions throughout the sector.  

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